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As a team, we all put our work up in the foyer space, curating and rearranging the pieces until we were satisfied with how it looked. The bowls all went on a table in the centre, to denote that they are all from the same project, while the secondary artefacts are placed around the perimetre of the room, with thought given to the balance and weight of each side, while a screen plays the videos that we compiled of the process of our bowls.

My work was quite limited in where it could go, since I needed access to both a plug and somewhere to hang it. In order to hang my pendant light, a brace was screwed into a small part of the wall where a wooden dowel had been inserted, so that I could have a spike sticking out of the wall for my light to hang from. Before hanging, I had not been very happy with my work, but after hanging it up in an exhibition space, taking a step back and actually looking at it, I’m more pleased with it. I know what needs to be improved upon for the future, and as it is, it looks similar to the way that I imagined it to. I had wanted it to look otherworldly, either from a fairy-tale story or an alien planet, and I think that while I drew inspiration from art nouveau aesthetics, the colour scheme lends to this appearance. I think that if it were to be hung in a darker space, perhaps with some fleurdelys wallpaper behind it, or maybe outdoors in a wintry tree, it could look interesting.

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Electronic Components

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The cable that I chose was not a good option for what I wanted to do, but by the time I realised this, I had already started and didn’t have time to start again from scratch. I had to peel back the rubber coating, and rearrange the conductive outer layer so that I could reach the inner conductive strips. If I had used multicore, then this would not have been an issue. I soldered 0.1mm electrical copper wire to each section, and also to the LED at the other end. I used a little too much, so the LED sits awkwardly at the bottom of the angelina fibre pod rather than hanging nicely in the centre like I wanted. I will be more careful to measure this in the future.  I used hot glue to make sure that the solder did not break, as the connections were very delicate, and while this is good for stability, it means that I can no longer change the length of the copper wire without using a new LED.

I also applied a resistor to the circuit, which sits just before the breaker which is part of the plug, and dims the LED to a gentle glow, rather than the almost blinding brightness of the photo above. I used shrink wrap to keep them looking a little tidier, and to help prevent them breaking.

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Acetate Cutting

I spent about 5-6 hours cutting the vein pattern out of acetate with a scalpel. It looks much better as a full form rather than just a semisphere, when you can see the continuation of the pattern on the other side.

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After forming around my former, the shape is nice, but the top of the acetate is uneven due to the method of melting it, so the sections do not all hang straight. I had intended to stitch the components together to make them stay in place, but the acetate does not respond very well to this.

For the future, I need to think of a way to make the connections sit inside the circular part of the outer shell, perhaps by heating the acetate around the former as well, so that it fits a little more easily inside, or cutting away parts that fold over each other and make it bumpy.

Forming the Outer Shell

After cutting out the basic shape on the laser cutter, and filing down the sharp parts, I used the same former to shape the circular top as I used to created the angelina fibre pods in the centre. After that, I shaped the curved form by hand, using a heat gun bit by bit. In the future, I would shape the curved parts first, using a wave shaped former, then make the circular centre afterwards, that way the curves would all be symmetrical and the coils would not be off-centre.

I vastly prefer the version with the sparser tendrils. Its easier to get the other components into the centre, and since the main form turned out slightly smaller, the tails are longer and allow for more curls and interesting formations the way I had envisioned in my plans. Creating this section was slightly more difficult than I had envisioned; using the heat gun doesn’t give a very specific range of heat, and it was guesswork which parts would be melted- also, when twisting them together they kept falling apart.

Adhesive Methods

Some testers I did to find out what kind of glue would work best, and whether I should use only one length of cable or two. I want to use two cables, as I would like them to be twisted together to fit with the theme of the light, where a lot of it is twisted, but this kind of cable does not want to stay twisted and therefore I have elected to use only one length of cable.

I tried araldite and superglue, and also tried using a knot but that was far too bulky and would be visible inside the angelina fibre pod. The araldite was a little messier, but I applied too much superglue and it dripped everywhere. The araldite made a mess and was very gel-y on the surface, the streaky marks from where I tried to clean it away before it dried are visible.

For the real piece I will most likely use superglue as the adhesion is secure and it is less visible as long as I am careful.

Initial Material Gatherings

I sourced some cable and laser cut the main shape for the outer shell of my lamp, as well as the circular pieces that will act as a core. While I was cutting these, either the laser cutter malfunctioned or there was something wrong with the files, and the laser head stopped moving at a few points, but kept burning away the acrylic, leaving holes in the surface. This set me back as I then had to bandsaw some of it free, and then file down the irregular edges, which was an irritation since usually the laser cutter leaves a smooth finish, and the bandsaw left the edges rough and white.

I chose this particular cable as it is decently thick, and coated in black rubber. If I were to do this over, I would choose a kind that is multi core, so that it would be easier to connect the LED to it without it being messy.