Finished Stool Maquette

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Close ups of each method of joinery. To attach the seat to the legs I used short screws, and to fix the metal hoop to the legs I used nuts and bolts. I am pleased in particular with the way the legs fit together; despite it being a simple method of joinery, it is quite appealing to the eye.

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Metal Hoop

With the help of a course mate, Tomasz, I cut a strip of metal and put it through the roller to make it curved. I put the angle grinder to it to make it shiny.

After the loop was welded (by Tomasz) I angle grinded it it back down so that it’s flat, and to make it shiny again. In order to affix the hoop onto the stool I used bolts, making a feature of the joinery rather than trying to hide it. On a full sized model, I would use a cap on both sides, to make the join more subtle, and match it with the metal hoop a little more.

Stool Legs

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With the legs fixed to the seat, it could be a working stool now! The legs need a little fixing so that it’s level and doesn’t wobble, but I want to get the steel hoop around them first to make them more stable. I’m quite pleased with how this looks- its so similar to my digital mock up.

Seat Inlay

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I used a dremmel to cut away the right depth of material for the metal inlay to lie in. The dremmel was good for the larger areas, and helped me gauge how deep I should have it, but for the more delicate parts I used a scalpel. Some issues arose in the way it was cut: since the metal is slightly curved, it won’t fit exactly into the cavity without being clamped down, which made it harder to tell whether I was cutting out the right places or not. Initially the plan was to glue it into place, fill any gaps with glue and sawdust, then sand the entire thing down until it became level, however, I didn’t take into account the thickness of the adhesive I used (silver car body filler) which left it sticking out much more than I had anticipated. It would be unsafe to sand a surface so uneven, so I had to leave it be. If I were to do this a second time, I would use a different type of glue, or make the carving a lot deeper.

Getting the excess car body filler off the wood was also a challenge: I had to hand sand most of it away, or scrape it off with a scalpel, since the holes were so small I couldn’t get the sandpaper into them. I ended up having to glue it down a second time, since not all of the metal was stuck down the first, so in order to counter this problem, Martin suggested that I spread a thin layer of vaseline down on the wood and the car body filler came away much easier.

The finished stool seat, after cleaning and oiling.

Laminating Stool Legs

 

Made a former from blocks of wood and cut strips of veneer.

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Using vacuum suction to laminate the legs. I used masking tape to make sure that the layers of veneer didn’t splay out when being forced into place by the plastic bag. After they have dried, I will cut them down to the right length, so I have used more than the amount of veneer needed to form the legs themselves.

In Situe for Design Sheet

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Using my skills on rhino, I created a 3D space which resembled a corner of the theoretical office space that was in and placed my stools inside it. My 3D space shows the different variations of the stools that I designed, and similarities to the 3D space that was shown in the brief: the cork board.

Using photoshop, I edited a photo of a model into the image. The first model that I chose was an office worker,┬ábut he didn’t fit the look that I was going for, so I chose someone more fashionable instead.